Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Saturday, 2 November 2013

From One New Year To The Next



Our New Year holiday is booked! After quite a bit of discussion(a few months to be exact) we have decided on Munich. I can't wait to spend a week in the crisp Bavarian city, where I shall learn to drink beer, wrap up warm, and explore the many sights that Munich has to offer. Last year I spent New Year in Berlin, so it will be my second New Year spent in Germany in a row. I have been told that the two cities are very different. 

Berlin, I loved. I'm sure the constant blue skies and fresh and frosty air helped, I do love to get all wrapped up and head out into the cold. And cold it was. It averaged around minus 6 degrees each day, and I think this was warm for Berlin at that time of year.



My brother knows the city well, so he was in effect my tour guide for the week. My first request was an obvious one, but me being me, I of course wanted to visit a food market. There were quite a few to choose from, and in fact we visited quite a few over the week. Most had amazingly fresh street food, of all different nationalities. Where ever we went, there were gorgeous smelling pastries, including Borek, deliciously crisp, hot filo parcels with spinach, feta, pinenuts and warming spices - perfect remedy for frozen fingers.






Look at that exceptionally Germanic sweetie table. No sugary pinks in sight! I'm not a fan of liquorice so I didn't take my chances here.

Berlin is like a living canvas, graffiti is very much a part of the character of the city. No building is free of it, and it seemed to be embraced by those living there, more so than it is in London. Art critic Emilie Trice has called Berlin "the graffitti Mecca of the urban art world." Graffiti tours are popular. From the authority's point of view, if Graffiti brings in tourism, they will turn a  blind eye - with tourism comes money, and Berlin is a city steeped in debt.


In stark contrast to the urban city scape depicted above, there were also lots of pockets of natural beauty. Sometimes you'd forget you were in the middle of Germany's capital city.



Oh, and look, we found ourselves at another food market. This one in particular was a traditional German market, the type we get a lot in England at Christmas. Beer, of course was flowing in abundance, but I am not much a beer drinker, so I stuck to the Gluwein - delicious and deadly, it's a hint stronger than our typical mulled wine!




One of the most iconic sights in Berlin is the Brandenburg Gate. We visited at dusk, and it looked quite spectacular. It was here that scenes of celebration took place when the Berlin wall came down, and the gate itself had to be repaired. 23 years on and the scenes were very different, many a tourist, street performer and the odd stag do were there, thrown in for good measure.






Next on my list was the Jewish Museum. The newest part of the museum, designed by Daniel Libeskind, was haunting. It's striking architecture was designed to represent different elements of Jewish history, the zig zag building is cut through with an axial route, which leads to a dead end, the Holocaust Void, which cannot be entered.

The only void that can be accessed by visitors at the Jewish Museum is the void of Memories. Here lie ten thousand metal faces, representing not only the Jews, but all of those who lost their lives in war. You are invited to walk out into the void, stepping on the faces, listening to the sounds of the metal sheets as they clang together. I found this quite haunting, and felt uncomfortable walking on the metal faces, which I suppose was all part of the design.




One charming element of the museum was the wish tree, which you could climb up inside on the spiral stair case and hang a wish from the branches. It was lovely to stand amongst the leaves and read everyone's messages of hope. I'm a bit hazy on what I wished for, but I have a feeling it came true.

Now, look at this for a beautiful building. Hauptbahnhof is Berlin's main station - its hard to gauge the scale of this from a picture.




From here, we hopped back on the train and paid a visit to Berliner Dom, an absolutely stunning cathedral. The grounds around it were also beautiful - I can imagine in the Summer that the grass would be flooded with tourists soaking up the sun and the views, but since it was pretty freezing, we didn't hang around too long. Long enough for the afternoon to turn to dusk.





The good thing about exploring a city in the freezing cold weather is the excuse to stop in lots of cafes to warm yourself up. Here we drank coffees, teas, chai lattes, ate cake, played childish games and took silly photos. Can you work out what we were doing? I was there and I haven't a clue!













New Year itself was spent drinking very potent Gluwein and watching the fireworks from top of our block of flats where we were staying in Kreuzberg. Fireworks in Berlin go off everyday in the week leading up to New Year. Mostly set off in the street by joe public, you have to watch you don't get in the way when they're going off. More and more get set off as the week continues and by NYE afternoon, it sounds like a battlefield on the streets. From the top of our block of flats, we had a 360 degree view of Berlin, and a 360 degree firework display. I have never seen anything like it, it lasted all night. And I mean all night. In fact, fireworks continued into the next day.

So, 2013 started well. It was great being away with my brother, last time we were on holiday together was probably almost 10 years ago. Let's hope 2014 has an equally good beginning :).


Saturday, 26 October 2013

Island Life - Hvar



Just as Autumn arrives (my absolute favourite time of year), I am finally getting down to telling you about my amazing week spent in Hvar, Croatia. Five of us got together at the end of September and waved goodbye to a slightly cold and grey London and hopped on the plane to a very sunny Croatia.

We arrived early evening, and having missed the last Ferry over to Hvar, our first night was spent in Split. The ancient buildings were all beautifully lit and the place had a bit of a feel of a film set. Stunning. 





The next morning, we got up early, had our first of many pastries for breakfast (each street seemed to have at least 3 pastry shops and not necessarily much else), and hopped onto a ferry over to Hvar.

Sadly, although we were greeted with this stunning view, things didnt go all to smoothly to begin with. As we got off the boat, there were hoards of locals with signs trying to pedal their accomdation. We very smugly declined - we had booked the beautiful Palace Hotel (an actual palace in the 16th century), right in the centre of the town. We had wanted to be right amongst the buzz, and this place certainly was. It overlooked the harbour and was a stones throw from the bustling main square.



Unfortunately, the receptionist had some very bad news for us. The online agent that had made our booking on behalf of bookings.com had gone bust, and cancelled our booking. Over a month ago. Why had no one told us?! All the hotels were fully booked so we had no choice but spend the next few hours trawling tripadvisor to try and find a good alternative. We settled on an apartment in the centre of Hvar and waited in the square with an Aperol Spritz (an Italian drink of Prosecco and orange liquer)and tried to find the funny side of it all, while our apartment owner's Auntie came to collect us to show us to our new home for the next week.



After ditching our luggage in our decidedly strange accommodation, we headed back out to explore, and ended up in Hula Hula bar, which turned out to be one of our favourite places of the holiday. The bar was built into the rocks on the beach and had 180 degree views of the sea. The sunsets here were to die for, and we spent most of our days here soaking up the sun and then watching the sun set as we tucked into our cocktails and prosecco.








Hula Hula was in a bay, just tucked around the corner from the harbour and the main square, so we had a little walk back each day, and look how amazing the view was.



Oh wait, sorry, those are my friends (still an amazing view though, although I am biased).

Here it is.


Back at Hula Hula bar the next day, we watched the boats sail in and out of the harbour from our sun beds on the rocks. Look how beautiful and clear the water is. Despite being told it would be lovely and warm in the sea, it wasn't, but it was wonderfully refreshing, you just had to watch out for the pesky sea urchins. I am a bit of a wimp in the sea, but they didn't put me off, just make sure you're armed with some shoes for protection. I definitely came to the conclusion that week that shoes and a bikini is not a great look!


All of the beaches were pebble beaches, which I thought would be a pain, but actually it was quite nice to not be covered in sand the whole time, and there were always sunbeds where ever you went, so there was no need to snooze on the rocks.





This beautiful bar had day beds over looking the sea. We thought about hiring one for the day, but they were about £150.00 each and no one else was ever there, so we thought it might be a bit lacking in atmosphere. Later in the week, the bar was the venue for a wedding reception, and having been spotted having a nosy by the bride's Uncle, he insisted on showing us around and having photos taken. We didn't stay too long since we were getting some scowls from the rest of the bridal party.



Many an afternoon spent playing cards...



... and watching the sun set.



And drinking more Prosecco.


And Daiquiris.


We knew we wanted to do a boat trip to one of the beautiful local islands, and were recommended Palmižana so one morning we got up early and headed down to the harbour to find ourselves a water taxi. 


We were'nt disappointed with the recommendation. Palmižana is a small island, and we were dropped off on a jetty in a small bay, with shallow, crystal clear waters, and even a bit of sand.



After some sunbathing we stopped for spot of lunch at Laganini (Lounge Bar). It was a bit Robinson Crusoe esque, seats built into trees, all on different levels. The staff were friendly. The food was divine.



We had tomato bruschetta with local cheese and balsamic glaze. Honey, local cheese and beautiful freshly made bread.


But, my highlight was the Octopus Bruschetta. So simple and fresh, the flavours spoke for themselves.

The presentation was pretty spectacular too I think you'll agree.










All polished of course with a Pina Colada. So naughty, but so good!


Our lovely water taxi driver came back to collect us before the sun began to go down. I don't whether it was anything to do with the Pinas we'd been drinking, but we laughed all the way back to Hvar, bumping over the waves, trying not too get soaked.



He even let us have a little go at steering (brave man).




The food was amazing in Croatia, particularly if you are a lover of sea food like I am. We ate so well, fresh tuna steak, mussels, sea bass, and of course lots and lots of lovely squid. I think we ate this every day. Delicious.





Look at the delicious crispy tentacles. Yum.


We had a fabulous week, met some great people, and are making plans for a reunion next year. 

See you at Hula Hula!